Honduras’
Lost City the Ciudad Blanca Inspires Adventurers to Discover it
By Wendy
Griffin
I am amazed
that when some people hear about a “lost” city in the Honduran Mosquitia
rainforest, known as the “Ciudad Blanca” (The White City), they think, “I
should go and look for it…” and within a relatively short time, they decide to
dedicate significant amounts of time, energy, and money and suffer significant
hardships to do so.
When Ted Danger was hunting for gold in the
Rio Platano area, and saw some of the archaeological pieces like those shown on
the website www.roatanet.com/ciudadblanca
he was then inspired to spend years and
significant sums of money documenting what was known about the area, its indigenous
inhabitants, and the search for the
site. Danger, interviewing people in various countries and throughout Honduras, made several trips
into the Mosquitia himself to look for the Lost City. His latest expedition is documented in the
video “Discover the Rio Platano Biosphere: in Search of the Ciudad Blanca”. It
was filmed by Discovery Channel cameraman Tony Barrado and recently edited into
a four part series in English (1 part in
Spanish) on Youtube. This video also has an excellent history of how the Rio
Platano Biosphere was started.
Canadian
geographer Derek Parent was travelling between Mexico and Honduras studying the
phenomena of protected areas encapsulating archaeological sites, when he
arrived at Santa Rosa de Copan on the western side of Honduras. While there, he
began to hear stories and oral traditions related to the lost Ciudad Blanca somewhere
in the Mosquitia. He was then inspired to go into the remote Mosquitia on the
far side of the country, several days travel away, exploring, measuring and mapping ancient
ruins covered by rainforest, staying with anyone who would give him shelter. “Some very unusual people are hiding in the
rainforest in the Honduran Mosquitia”, noted Derek Parent, who was interviewed
for A & E TV (Arts & Entertainment) network’s Lost Cities episode on
The Unexplained series, showcasing Ciudad Blanca. The task of mapping the
Mosquitia, its archaeological sites and river and coastal transportation
eventually took six years during which he spent over $100,000, before heading
home to Canada.
On Parent’s return from the Mosquitia, he
spent still more years analyzing the journals of an earlier researcher
investigating the Ciudad Blanca: Theodore Morde, working with Morde’s nephew David
Morde, to try to decipher Morde’s
precise trajectory from old journals to the City of the Monkey Gods -- Morde’s
name for the large ruin he found and which he thought might be the Ciudad Blanca.
This collaboration went on for nearly ten years. Morde’s 1939 Ciudad de Mono
Dios (City of the Monkey God) report in Spanish is in the IHAH library in
Tegucigalpa. Parent eventually
deciphered Morde’s mysterious and complex carved and numbered stick as
directions to, or, shape of a ruin find.
Parent actually went back to the Mosquitia on several occasions to
complete his 6 year project mapping the entire Mosquitia and RAAN/RAAS regions
of Honduras and Nicaragua.
Traveling
via sea kayak along the Coast of the Mosquitia and up many of the rivers—Parent,
in part, studied issues like transportation routes of the peoples who he
thought were connected with the Ciudad Blanca and oral traditions thereof. Articles
on the Ciudad Blanca and Theodore Morde are available on Wikipedia in English.
These
expeditions led Parent to complete his extremely detailed series of thirty
four 1:30 000 and 1:60 000 scale maps
over a 6 year project time, covering the entire Honduras Department of Gracias
a Dios, regions of Nicaragua, entitled: La Mosquitia & Environs. These
maps, now on DVD, are at a scale and detail not ever publically available on
this region in the past, showing in minutia features of every currently
protected and proposed protected park and trail, including indigenous water
routes throughout this vast little-travelled region, and 84 additional thematic
map layers all overlaid on a high resolution digital terrain model, acquired
from the SRTM space shuttle topography mission. Parent’s new map set have been
used by developers of private nature parks in Nicaragua, as thematic maps in
ornithological journal publications, as large park posters for expedition
clients and as expedition planning tools on several cultural and geophysical forays
into the region.
While on
these trips he visited most of the archaeological sites connected by legend to
the Ciudad Blanca and his book on his travels in the Mosquitia sold thousands
and thousands of copies during a 14 state signing tour, he said. His website on
a Walkabout in the Mosquitia was popular and was consulted by both academics
like archaeologist John Hoopes and other people interested in the Mosquitia.
This website is no longer up and the web archive site, known as the Way Back
machine, does not have this site. Some librarians and historians are concerned
about things that are only on the Internet are not being archived anywhere, and
once their owner stops paying for the website, the content disappears.
Dangers
Lurk for People thinking to visit the Ciudad Blanca area
By Wendy
Griffin
Over the
last year there has been considerable interest in the Honduran Spanish language
press and among Honduran government officials about the Ciudad Blanca (White
city), a ruin in the Honduran Mosquitia reportedly located within the Rio
Platano Biosphere Reserve. Former Honduran
President Lobo reportedly told his Council of Ministers that the finding of the
Ciudad Blanca is one of the major scientific discoveries of the 21st
century. El Heraldo, a Tegucigalpa paper,
did a whole series on Ciudad Blanca and La Tribuna, also of Tegucigalpa,
recently did an editorial on how it is necessary to do something about the
Ciudad Blanca, reported Honduran anthropologist Dr. Lazaro Flores whose books
Mitos y Leyendas de los Pech Los Guardianes de los Patatahua (Myths and legends
of the Pech The Guardians of the Patatahua-our enemies) in 1989 and Dioses,
Heroes y Hombres en el Universo Mítico Pech (Gods, Heros and Men in the Pech
Mythical Universe) in 1991 contained
some of the first published Pech accounts of the Legend of the Ciudad Blanca.
Apparantly dreams of dollars and thousands of eco-tourists are part of why the
Hondurans are excited about the possibility of the Ciudad Blanca. Both El
Heraldo and La Tribuna are available online.
The Pech of Las Marias, located at the base of
the Rio Platano report there are now two soldiers assigned to protect the forest of the Rio
Platano Biosphere. This Reserve houses
at least 50,000 inhabitants. (The Wikipedia article on the Biosphere says
2,000, but just the Garifunas in the Bioshere number over 5,000). The Rio
Platano Biosphere, originally a park designed to protect the Ciudad Blanca
archaeological zone, is about the size of Delaware and Rhode Island combined,
estimates writer Chris Stewart, author of a new book about searching for the
Ciudad Blanca Jungleland, available on Amazon.com. Prior to 1992 there was no
Honduran government presence in the area, which helps explain why UNAH
ethnobiologist Paul House describes the area as a lawless area in the video Discover
the Rio Platano Reserve in Search of Ciudad Blanca filmed by Ted Danger and
available on youtube in English or in Spanish. Search for Ciudad Blanca
Honduras.
Chris
Stewart, the author of the recently published book, “Jungleland” about his
search for the Ciudad Blanca, and his guides (including US archaeologist Chris
Begley) report running into bandits. Chris’s Ladino tour guides lost their
lands due to bandits over running their village in the area. The problem of Ladinos going into the area
and cutting down mahogany while protecting loggers with machine guns or AK-47’s,
or settling “a la fuerza” (by force) in Indian controlled areas has been
reported by Miskitos, Pech and Garifunas in and near the Rio Platano Biosphere
area. Trafficking in endangered species or hunting animals in danger of
extinction are also frequently mentioned by adventurers such as Derek Parent and
is shown in Ted Danger’s video on the Ciudad Blanca on YouTube.
I have
heard reports in Trujillo of two Italians tourists who were murdered traveling
by land in public transportation to the Rio Platano Biosphere. Chris Stewart
reports seeing and hearing of actual dead people as he travels in the Mosquitia.
If people are shooting and killing tourists who have video cameras in the
center of Tegucigalpa or San Pedro, cities where there are a lot of police and
witnesses, who is going to do anything about another dead person in the
rainforest? Some Honduran bus companies have refused to travel through Olancho
any more along the road that goes by the Muralla National Park where the
quetzal birds are after the murder of a driver and the rape of a female tourist
on a COTRAIBAL bus.
I stopped writing tourist articles for
Honduras This Week after family members of an American tourist killed on a
public bus travelling through Olancho wrote and complained why were we encouraging
people to come to Honduras to meet their death? Thousands of tourists a year
get in and out of Honduras, even San Pedro Sula, without dying, but the question of Honduran
crime, known general as “delicuencia” or “la insecuridad”, which includes not
just murder, but also kidnapping for as little as L1,000 ransom, robbery,
carjacking, and rape definitely hurts the likelihood tourists will want to come
to Honduras in general and the Ciudad Blanca area in particular. The presence
of drug traffickers and illegal loggers with AK 47’s and drug airports in the
area are also a deterant and the Miskito women who had formed a microbusiness
for tourists in the area have abandoned it, so do not fooled by the glowing
reports of ecotourism in the Wikipedia article.
At the conclusion of Danger’s video there is a
great interview with the Garifuna indigenous guide Roberto Marin of Plaplaya about
the question of foreign aid for the Biosphere, that there is a lot of it, but the Biosphere has not changed at all in
spite of that, and in fact is getting worse. Although filmed in 2000, the Pech
did not think the situation had improved any since that video was filmed. In
fact, the deterioration around the Pech communities at Las Marias, caused by
illegal logging, clearing for cattle, and people buying land for African palms,
in the heart of the Rio Platano Biosphere, Honduras’s largest park and a UNESCO
World Heritage site, has gotten markedly worse over the last 3 years, report
the Pech of Las Marias.
The
Garifunas of OFRANEH also denounce problems of drug trafficking in the
“muncipio” or county of Walamagu,
Gracias a Dios where the Ciudad Blanca may be located. The Rio Platano Biosphere where the
Ciudad Blanca may be located includes areas included in the muncipios of
Walamugu (Juan Francisco Bulnes) and Brus Laguna in Gracias a Dios (la
Mosquitia), Iriona, Colon and Dulce Nombre de Culmi, Olancho.
The area of
the Sico and Paulaya Rivers which are both gold bearing rivers in Iriona, Colon
which run into the Rio Negro (Black River) border on the Ciudad Blanca area,
which was described by Theodore Morde as between the Rio Paulaya and the Rio
Platano. OFRANEH also denounces drug trafficking problems in Iriona, Colon and both
Ladinos and Garifuna report drug traffickers using the highway between Trujillo
and Tocoa and Iriona. Garifunas in Iriona report some of their land being taken
over by drug traffickers. In Trujillo Garifunas report a drug related airstrip
outside of Sangrelaya, a Garifuna community in Iriona only acessible by canoe
or by air, which like the drug airport at Las Marias can be seen on the
Honduran government’s official Model City or ZEDE website www.zede.gob.hn.
The muncipio or county of Culmi, Olancho is also
an area associated drug trafficking in addition to possibly being home
to the Ciudad Blanca with Ladinos who
produce and distribute marijuana in Honduras, and according to the Pech many of
the deaths among Ladinos in the Culmi area are associated with “la hoja” (the
leaf), as they call the local marijauana trade. The Pech have also been
murdered or attempted to be murdered in the Culmi, Olancho area for reasons of
theft, like stealing liquidambar resin or stealing a motorcycle. Pech leaders
have also been murdered for land disputes like teacher Blas Lopez, who was
president of the Pech Federation (FETRIPH) at the time of his death.
There are
also many natural problems in the Ciudad Blanca area. Besides the risks of physical
injury like drowning via crossing rivers by swimming, your canoe possibly
overturning, and the illnesses which occur in the jungle such as malaria,
dengue, and various fevers brought on by insects or by getting wet in the
downpours and never really drying out, there are poisonous snakes in the area.
The Lance de Fer snake, known locally as barba
amarilla (yellow beard) in Spanish, is the most feared. If the Indians do not
treat you for snakebite immediately in the rainforest, you will likely not get
out alive. Other poisonous snakes reside in the area such as the “tamagas” -- a
species of deadly viper. Chris Stewart and Chris Begley reported in the book
Jungleland seeing poisonous snakes every day they were in the rainforest in the
area thought to be the Ciudad Blanca area, including on one occasion being eye
to eye with a poisonous snake on a rock they had planned to climb up on.
Chris
Stewart’s new book Jungleland on looking for the Ciudad Blanca is
exciting reading, partly in terms of the search of a lost city, but
mostly as an adventure story
detailing some very hard and dangerous
expeditioning—no electricity, no bathrooms or running water, no dry clothes, no
roads, jungle river trips by dugout canoes, bandits, snakes, guns, rainforest
Indians few people have heard of (like the Tawahka), rainforest spirits
including ghosts of dead Indians and the Uhlak, a spirit that protects the
Tawahka rainforest, no hotels not even even beds, and no stores or restaurants
to rely on.
A number of
people in Honduras, Gringos, Ladinos, Garifunas, etc. have been excited about the possibility of
eco-tourism and adventure tourism related to the Ciudad Blanca area, described by Honduran radio announcers as
“bigger than Copan Ruinas”. Copan is the sprawling Honduran Maya site in
Western Honduras, which to this day has only been partially excavated, with
only 3 of 20 neighborhood excavations opened to the public. The classic era (300-900 AD) city of Copan,
in the valley of Copan, was the capital of a state also known as Copan which
extended into Guatemala at least as far as Quirigua in Izabal Province and in
the Camotan and Jocotan municipios of Chiquimula and probably the Esquipulas
region of Guatemala, in Honduras to the
north of La Entrada, Copan, to the east almost to Quetzalaica, Copan and the
Belen Gualcho area of Ocotepeque and to the south to include most of the
Ocotepeque Department in Honduras and the Western and part of Central El
Salvador to the Rio Lempa border.
Most
Hondurans have no idea how big Copan as a state or city was, and even
professional archaeologists have paid little attention to the parts of the
Copan state outside of the Copan valley, so whether the Ciudad Blanca which is
probably a Postclassic (900-1500 AD site) based on the ceramics of the region is
actually bigger than classic era Copan the city, the valley or the state can
not even be guessed at.
Reading
Chris Stewart’s book does not encourage the idea that significant tourism will
arrive any time soon to the Ciudad Blanca area. Gringo visitor family, friends and academics
complain about the 7 hour bus ride from San Pedro to Trujillo on a paved road
to visit me, so the likelihood that they want to take a chicken bus, and then a several day boat ride up the
Patuca and Rio Guampu, then hike in the perilous rainforest to the vicinity of the
major reported archaeological sites in the Ciudad Blanca area sounds highly
unlikely. If the Patuca III dam is finished in the area of Patuca, Olancho,
until recently under construction by the Chinese who left when their lives were
threatened by local people, it will be even harder to actually get to that part
of the Patuca and its tributary the Guampu River, which leads to some of the
archaeological sites described in Chris Stewart’s book which are primarily
accessible by motorized canoes.
Ted Danger’s attempt to go by helicopter to the coordinates of the Ciudad Blanca that
he had from a professor analyzing satellite data which showed large stone structures was
thwarted by heavy jungle canopy so that the helicopter landed miles away on
another river system and his video shows a lot of hard trekking with rented
mules through the jungle. The campesinos or Ladino peasants Ted Danger and
Chris Stewart run into in the area along the Rio Guampu and other rivers and
streams in the headwaters of the Rio Platano, either leave the area by mule or
mostly on foot, such as one man Chris met who wanted to go and see his sick
son, several days away of hard travelling by foot and then by local buses that
stop everywhere and so are called “para-para” (stop stop) by Hondurans and
travel over dirt roads in poor condition.
My friends
and family complain about not having electricity several hours a day several
days a week in Trujillo. These people do not want to trek to see the Ciudad
Blanca in the rainforest with no running water or electricity, nor to sleep in
a hammock suspended above raw jungle floor. Just the question of what to eat in
the Honduran rainforest, with no restaurants and poor Hondurans with little or
no food to spare, is a monumental and seemingly insurmountable problem, which
Christopher Stewart courageously describes. There are Honduran protected area
laws and regulations which prohibit the
bringing of infrastructure like electricity lines or new roads into the Rio
Platano Biosphere area.
When the
Tawahka Asagni Biosphere Reserve was first declared, people had visions of lots
of tourists coming to see the rainforest and the Tawahka and Miskito indigenous
cultures who live there. The Tawahkas built extra rooms on their houses to have
somewhere to house the tourists. However, the reality is that only a handful of
intrepid travelers have ever arrived, and many of them were development workers, anthropologists, geographers or
ethnobiologists.
Since the
problems with crime have increased in Honduras in general, there is almost no
tourism at all to the Rio Platano Biosphere reserve, reports Pech Indian Juana
Carolina Hernandez’s family in Las Marias—a village 7-hours up the Rio Platano
on board a motorized dugout canoe after flying or taking a bus or truck to
Palacios or Bataya on the Coast.
The
recent Lidar study to try to find out
where the Ciudad Blanca is, reportedly cost $1.5 million, provided by the
Honduran government, reported Honduran anthropologist Dr. Lázaro Flores. Given
Honduras’s tremendous cash flow problems for paying for even basic services
like the teachers and the doctors, this does not sound like a good investment,
and especially to find a ruin that has already studied and mapped at
significantly less cost. The hope of many Hondurans, foreigners, and funding
agencies that the Ciudad Blanca will eventually provide significant eco-tourism
dollars will probably not pan out.
Even the idea behind Ted Danger’s video and
SEPH group that publicity for the Ciudad Blanca site would eventually result in
its protection from looters or benefit the local people and inspire them to
protect the rainforest around the site also probably will not pan out. In
Trujillo where there are two national parks, one to protect the water supply of
the city in the mountains and another which is supposedly a wildlife refuge
next to the Guaymoreto Lagoon and in theory protects mangroves and areas where
shrimp and fish reproduce, few tourists and almost no local residents go to
these parks and while the parks have important ecological functions, generating
eco-tourism dollars is not one of them.
In Honduras
if the government decides to develop a Honduran Indian religious site for
tourism such as Copan Ruinas, when the Maya-Chortis previously held ceremonies,
photographed by the early archaeologists, or the Caves of Taulabe where the
Lenca Indians were still holding religious ceremonies relating to the bringing
of rain into the 1950’s according to anthropologists Rafael Girard and Doris
Stone or sacred mountain areas like Celaque National Park in the Lenca area,
the first thing the government does is take the site away from the Indians,
fence it and prohibit ceremonies there and prohibit the entrance of Indians
without paying admission. In this context, it is not surprising the Pech
Indians do not want to say which large archaeological site in the Mosquitia is
the Ciudad Blanca.
The
development associated with these ceremonial sites usually does not include the
Indians, such as the fact that Honduran government shop at the Copan
Archaeological Park does not now and has never sold Maya Chorti Indians crafts
in spite of several attempts to get them to do so, and only after several
takings of the Park and blocking entrance to tourists for several days were the
Chortis given the right to be hired as guards, more than 50 years after the
opening of the park. The Honduran government also had not paid these guards for months denounced
the Chorti in their protest this year.
Land values
go up in areas of tourist development and there is more taking of indigenous
lands, such as the Bay Islanders having lost 75% of the land there to tourism
enterprises mostly since the beginning of the cruise ship industry there,
reports Artlie Brooks, the Bay Islander author of Black Chest on the 2012 book
on the History of the Black English speakers or the land sales in the Trujillo and Santa Fe
areas in the Garifuna area of Colon or the Tela area of Atlantida designed to
attract foreign tourists and residents. House lots in the Trujillo and Santa Fe
areas not on the beach go for between $10,000 and $20,000 and in the Bay
Islands land on the beach in West Bay was selling for $1 million the acre. No
land is available in West Bay now, that was previously a swamp for hunting
crabs. How are the poor Garifunas and Bay Islander young men going to be able
to have land to build their houses at those prices?
Honduran anthropologist Lazaro Flores said the
Honduran government should make sure the local Indians have some benefits if
they are going to develop the Ciudad Blanca area, but given the Honduran
government’s past practices, this seems unlikely to happen. In Trujillo it is
noticeable that almost all the new infrastructure projects related to tourism,
like paved or new dirt access roads, a new cruise boat dock, housing projects
for Canadian retirees, etc. have hired few or no Garifuna laborers, even though
Trujillo and Santa Fe Garifunas lost land for these projects to be built, have
skills to do these jobs, and Enrique Gutierrez, the now deceased head of the
Garifuna program Jovenes del Futuro (Young People of the Future) personally
offered to find Garifuna cement workers, electricians, etc. who they could have
confidence in for the Canadian developers.
Renewed
Interest in Ciudad Blanca Sparked by new Books, Movies, and Technologies
By Wendy
Griffin
Christopher
Stewart’s new book Jungleland describes
his and US archaeologist Dr. Chris
Begley’s search for the Ciudad Blanca, the supposedly “lost city” hidden in the
Honduras Mosquitia, with all of the
discomforts and dangers that you can imagine in the rainforest. Stewart compares his journey to the story of Theodore Morde’s hunt for the
same site. Morde, an explorer commissioned by the New York City Heye
Foundation, later turned OSS agent in Europe, launched an extensive expedition
to Honduras in the late ‘30s and wrote a book about his find published by the
UNAH in Spanish in 1941 La Ciudad de Mono Dios (The City of the Monkey God).
Stewart’s new book is part of the reason for renewed interest in the Ciudad Blanca. A National Geographic documentary and even a
part in a popular movie called Xenda where psychics had to receive a message
from extraterrestials in the Ciudad Blanca area also contribute to the
interest, however the recent NBC news
releases and Honduras Weekly reports by Maggie Begley on the same Ciudad Blanca
were generated because of another group of seekers, this time led by filmmaker
Steve Elkins.
Elkins and
his LiDAR laser ranging team were looking for Ciudad Blanca with a technology
that could see the terrain and tree tops, and through processing, strip the
tree elevation noise out, revealing underlying topography. Elkins announced they had pictures showing
extensive mounds and platforms of what the group speculates is Ciudad Blanca at
a scientific conference, and would start to produce a documentary soon on
ground showing the truth of their LiDAR data in the fall. This new information including the photos of the
structures at the reported Ciudad Blanca
site received very wide circulation in the US and Honduran media especially on
the Internet, and even in Mexico and as part of the Wikipedia Ciudad Blanca
website in English.
Unfortunately, fall in the Honduran Mosquitia
brings heavy rains and is not be the best time to travel there--
think deep mud and catastrophically flooded rivers. Additionally but not the
least of an expedition’s dangers during rainy season include the Pech Indians
of the region advice that, “the lance de
fer pit vipers (barba amarilla snakes) come out of their holes during heavy
rains”, making it far more treacherous to travel on foot in the rainy season.
The best time to travel in the area is the end of March beginning of April
after several months of the dry season, when rivers are more passable and some
of the mud has dried, reports explorer Ted Danger and the Pech ad Miskito
Indians.
Christopher
Stewart is a writer and editor for the Wall Street Journal in New York City and
has had articles published in other prestigious magazines. His last book was on
a completely different topic. His first
book, a non-fiction book tracking Arkan, the infamous Serbian warlord operating
in the Balkans, had been well received.
However, Jungleland, his latest book in search of Ciudad Blanca has
gotten far more notice than most of what had been previously written on the
Ciudad Blanca partly because of the higher profile of the author. Stewart has a
website promoting Jungleland, with additional author thoughts and photos of his
perilous expedition into the Mosquitia jungle.
Jungleland is published in English in the US,
while most previous reports of the Ciudad Blanca area archaeology or legends or
ethnohistory were either in other languages and or published in other
countries. These reports include in German (Karl Sapper 1902), in Spanish but
published in France(Eduard Conzemius 1927), and in Honduras in Spanish (Theodore Morde, 1941, George
Hasseman in Yaxkin and bulletin on the Rio Platano Biosphere, also with a number of Honduran news reports
like in El Heraldo during 2012) and the 1991 Lazaro Flores and Wendy Griffin
book Dioses, Heroes y Hombres en el Univero Mitico Pech (Gods, Heroes and men
in the Pech Mythical Universe)-published in El Salvador. Additionally, my 1992
historical volume La Historia de los Indigenas de la Zona Nororiental de
Honduras (History of the Indians of Northeastern Honduras) and Miskito Indian Scott
Wood’s new 2013 book, in Spanish published by the Honduran Ministry of Culture on
the history of the Mosquitia which includes oral history and the Ciudad Blanca
from the Miskito Indian’s point of view both explain in detail the history of
the area, including some analysis of the archaeology.
Several
materials in English are available including articles were written by myself and published
in Honduras this Week are online and my book The History of the Indians of
northeastern Honduras Prehistory to 1800-1994, is in some libraries in Honduras
and the US in English (see google books). When Honduran anthropologist Dr.
Lazaro Flores read the recent news stories about how no one knew anything about
the Ciudad Blanca, his reaction was, “But what about all that we have published
over the last 20 years? They did not even mention us.” Similar reactions were reported among other people who had been
to the area like Ted Danger. Rosemary Joyce, an archaeologist who has worked on
the archaeology of the Department of Cortes (where San Pedro Sula and the Ulua
River area of Honduras are) for 20 years
and also studies Mayas, wrote in her blog at the University of
California-Berkely that the recent hype about the Ciudad Blanca and finding it
by Lidar as reported by NBC news was good science, big hype, but bad
archaeology.
A recent NBC
news report about the Ciudad Blanca wrote that archaeologists and
anthropologists had thought that large
civilizations could not exist in the rainforest of Northeastern Honduras or
elsewhere in Latin America. Also in this report it said that the Ciudad Blanca area ruins were
unknown; that no one had ever seen said ruins; and we do not know who could
have built these ruins, is disputed by professional archaeologists and other
explorers and the Indians of the region.
Two
long-time archaeologists focusing on Honduras, the now deceased George Hasseman
and Chris Begley have given professional conferences and published peer-reviewed
journal articles on a substantial pre-Columbian culture with temple mounds,
plazas, and white stone paved roads. Archaeologist,
explorers, and Indians also report artifacts there also found other parts of
Central America in the Postclassic period (900-1500 AD) such as the Sula
Valley, the Naco, Santa Barbara area, the Copan area, the Bay Islands, the
Trujillo area, the Valley of Agalta (San Esteban) in Olancho in Honduras and the
Pipil dominated part of Western El Salvador which are also found throughout the
Ciudad Blanca region. Some of these artifacts seem to have relations with
ceramics and gods known in the Cholula Valley in Puebla and Teotihuacan in the
Valley of Mexico in Central Mexico in the classic period (300-900 AD).
Dr. Chris
Begley of Transylvania University in Kentucky, USA. worked with the National
Geographic on a documentary movie on the Ciudad Blanca, according to National
Geographic’s website. The www.mosquitia.com
website notes that this documentary was shown on national TV (in the US, not in
Honduras) in 2012. This website,
notwithstanding its title, does not discuss the contemporary Miskito, Pech or
Tawahka indigenous peoples living in the vicinity of “the Ciudad Blanca”. The website is strictly about the Ciudad
Blanca myth and the possibility of visiting the Mosquitia with US archaeologist
Chris Begley.
Contemporary
explorers like Ted Danger and others have made available their visits to the
Ciudad Blanca area on Youtube.com. The
website associated with this video www.roatanet.com/ciudadblanca does have
descriptions and some photos and descriptions of some of the archaeological
artifacts found in the area.
Canadian
geographer and cartographer Derek Parent’s
explorations and mapping work indicates that there are various significant ruin
sites in this region. The Ciudad Blanca
myths vary from ethnic group to ethnic group and the current Spanish name may
encompass numerous sites over a large area between the Rio Paulaya and the Rio
Platano in the Honduran Mosquitia. Many
of these sites have already well visited by the current indigenous, Ladino, and
contemporary explorers and archaeologists. For example, in Chris Stewart’s book
Jungleland after almost a month in the forest and being wet and uncomfortable
and in danger, he realizes sadly that
the Ciudad Blanca is not lost, that not only has it probably been found, but
also mapped, studied, and professionally reported. No hero’s welcome was going
to await him back in New York that he personally had found the “lost” Ciudad
Blanca.
Explorers
in the area report Ladino children as young as 8 or 10 saying, “Oh sure, I will
show you where the Ciudad Blanca is.” Ladinos have shown at least 8 different
significant sized sites to Dr. Chris Begley saying this is the Ciudad Blanca.
The Pech working with anthropologists mention at least two different sites for
the possible location of “Kao Kamasa” (the White house) where the Pech hero
Patakako was buried, which is the importance for them of Ciudad Blanca, which
has a different base than the Ladino or Nahua Indians legends of the Ciudad
Blanca, which could refer to completely different archaeological sites.
The early
20th Century Honduran cartographer Jesus Aquilar Paz marked a
discrete Ciudad Blanca toponym with a question mark on his seminal 1930s
Honduras map and put Casa Blanca --the Spanish translation of the regional Pech
indigenous name “Kao Kamasa” (White House)-- on the map. This obviously casts
doubt on any claims that no one had seen the ruins -- at least in this
geographical locale.
The Pech Indians and other peoples residing in
the Mosquitia also report seeing these ruins. Spirits bother the Pech and
Miskito Indians who visit the site if they try to remove ancient artifacts, and,
according to the Pech effectively hide the ruins from gringo outsiders, that
only the Pech shaman and his followers could go there, reported Pech Indian Juana Carolina Hernandez
Torres (the Pech co-author of Los Pech de Honduras) and Miskito Indian Scott
Wood the author of La Mosquitia Desde Adentro (The Mosquitia from the Inside).
Hernandez Torres’
son-in-law and his hunting partner had visited the ruins while out hunting, but
spirits touched them and threw rocks and sticks, and did not let them sleep
when his partner tried to take one piece from there. They put it back and the
spirits stopped bothering them. Several temple mounds in the area associated
with the Ciudad Blanca have Ladino clay (bahareque) houses erected on them,
occupied. The ruins have convenient stone paved paths down to the rivers, and
are higher up above the mud, making this ancient infrastructure far easier to
build a jungle farm house on than the uncleared, unlevel muddy raw ground found
in this rainforest.
Besides the
actual stone buildings and roads and house mounds, which the local Indians
consider tombs of the dead Indians who used to live there, there are also
special burials in the caves in the Mosquitia, such as mummies in the caves of
Warunta, reports Miskito Scott Wood in his book La Mosquitia desde Adentro.
While Miskito Indians can see the cheeks and everything of the mummies in the
caves, if they try to take them out they disintegrate. Scott Wood considers these mummies may have
been of the Rah. Cave burials in Post Classic contexts have also been
professionally reported in the Trujillo area of Honduras, and Post Classic
grave goods have been offered for sale from caves in the Culmi/Ciudad Blanca
area. Both the Trujillo area in the Postclassic and Miskito reports of the Rah in
the Mosquitia after the Conquest period
may be associated with Nahua speakers. For example, the stone carved
statues of chiefs found in the Trujillo area and in the area near Puerto Cortes
are wearing kidney shields. This style that was introduced by the Toltecs
reported archeologist Michael Coe in his book Mexico.
Chris
Begley’s analysis that the ruins in the Ciudad Blanca were large and built of
stone and which he assumes were built by the ancestors of the contemporary Pech
was presented at a 1992 official Honduran government sponsored seminar
organized by IHAH (Honduran Institute of Anthropology and History) in honor of
the 500th anniversary of the Discovery of America. My analysis that
these ruins were not built by the Pech, but rather by the Mesoamerican
neighbors and enemies of the Pech according to Pech legends and an analysis of
the ruins, probably Nahua speakers, was presented at the same conference in
1992. This analysis has been on the Internet on the website www.roatanet.com/ciudadblanca
since 2000, contemporaneous with Chris Begley’s doctoral dissertation
submission at the University of Chicago on the archaeology of the Ciudad Blanca
region.
According to the 2012 El Heraldo newspaper interview
with Chris Begley (published on the Internet), conducted at the La Llorona
archaeological site in the area of Ciudad Blanca, retired historical geographer Dr. William Davidson who
specialized in the ethnogeography of Honduras
and a specialist in Central American Nahua speakers Dr. William Fowler
now believe the ruins in the area were probably built by Nahua speakers, but
Dr. Chris Begley disagrees. Dr. Robert Carmack, a well respected ethnohistorian
of Mesoamerica in his map of the Legacy of Mesoamerica, indicated Nahua as the
language of Trujillo/Aguan Valley/Agalta Valley at the time of Spanish conquest.
It is not clear from the map if he intended to include the Olancho Valley and
the Culmi, Olancho/Ciudad Blanca area as Nahua speakers at the time of conquest
also.
The Pech
report in their oral tradition and myths that they lived in the mountains above
the Agalta Valley, the Culmi/Rio Paulaya area, and near the Sico River and Rio Negro/Rio Tinto valleys and travelled above
the Catacamas, Olancho valley region, but they said if they went into the
valleys, including the Olancho Valley around Boqueron and the colonial city of
San Jorge de Olancho, they got ambushed
and captured, and were never heard of again, so they hunted and lived in the
mountains. Most of the place names around current Pech communities in Olancho,
including near the Ciudad Blanca area, are not in the Pech language.
The Spanish
sometimes called some of these other Olancho Indians in the colonial era “quire”
Indians because their town names often ended in “quire” like Conquire,
Aguaquire, Jamasquire and Pisijire. Even
Catacamas was sometimes written “Camaquire”. While Atanasio Herranz has a
theory that –quire may be related to the Lenca word –quira for stream
(quebrada), but no one is sure what language these place names are in. Other
place names in the Catacamas, Culmi and San Esteban, Olancho muncipios or
counties like Petaste (vegetable pear or chayote in Honduran Nahua and
Spanish), Aguacate (Avocado in Honduran Spanish and Nahua), Malacate (spindle whirl for spinning cotton
in Nahua and Honduran Spanish) mountain, river and village and La Llorona, the
Spanish name of the Siguanaba or Sihuanaba (spirit of woman in Nahua), are
clearly Nahua Indian related. One cave offering outside of Catacamas, Olancho
was found in a community of “quire”
Indians and was reported by US
archaeologist Doris Stone. The Nahua Indians of the Catacamas area are still
angry that the Honduran government came and took away this offering made by
their ancestors, reported the Indians to UPN students and professors.
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